THE LINEN
Origins | Plant | Cultivation and main processes | Morphology | Properties
Flaxseed (or linen seed), in Latin linum usitatissimum, used for the production of linen, is considered to be the oldest textile fibre and has been cultivated by the peoples of the Mediterranean for some ten thousand years. The first processing of the fibre into yarn dates back to 8,000 AC, and the finding of the mummies in the tombs of the Egyptian pyramids confirm the use of this noble fibre by the ancient Egyptians. The widespread use of flax, thanks to the techniques of cultivation and working much advanced at this period, aptly occurs in Egypt about 6000 AC; the Phoenicians, famous merchants and great navigators, purchased flax for linen from the land of the pharaohs to transport it Ireland, England and Brittany. During the period of the Roman Empire (27 AC to 395 DC), the cultivation and working of this fibre developed almost everywhere in Europe. The Romans were the first to use linen for not only clothing and garments but also home furnishings, developing procedures for its manufacturing that are not very different from those used today. The spread of linen reached its height during the medieval period. Not even the introduction of cotton by the Arabs during the 16th century was able to arrest its predominance. During the Renaissance period, and the establishment of a taste for a refined lifestyle, the use of linen became even more common in daily life, in particular in the production of sheeting and shirts. The linen industry started to become mechanized during the 17th and 18th century, in conjunction with the beginning of the industrial revolution, with textiles being one of the main flywheels of this revolution. The start of European colonization, and exploration of tropical areas, also encouraged the spread of the so-called “Colonial" style, a fashion founded in linen, thanks to its typical characteristics of freshness and lightness, it became the ideal fabric. During the twentieth century, the consumption of linen began to grow steadily even though the techniques of cultivation and manufacturing remained traditional. At present, as far as Europe is concerned, the best linen is cultivated in Normandy and in Belgium.
An annual plant that bears blue or white flowers and has a stem that can reach a height of between 80 to 120 centimetres. The most common variety is linum usitatissimum cultivated mainly in China, Russia, Ukraine, France, Byelorussia, Holland, Egypt, Belgium, the Czech Republic and Lithuania. There is another variety of flax with has a shorter stem, which is used to make linseed oil. The best quality of flax is obtained in temperate climates, near the sea and at low altitudes.
The cultivation of linen and the main processes of manufacturing
The plant seeding is done between March and April and its growth occurs in a period of between 90 to 120 days. After this, the plant flowers on the top of the stem, which can last until July and August, the period during which harvesting takes place. Alternating sun and rain is required to achieve a good maturation. The maturation is characterized by a yellowing of the plant, the falling of the leaves and a browning of the of seed capsules. The level of maturation determines the harvesting in relation to the type of product that one wants to obtain. In fact, with the so-called "green maturity" one obtains a very fine fibre, the lin bleu, used for batiste, cambric and lace. With the “yellow maturity” when maturity is almost complete, one obtains a fibre that is much more resistant but still fine, the use of this method is the most widespread. With "full maturity "the fibre is very poor and this method is used to cultivate only the seed of the plant. During the harvesting phase, the flax plant is pulled up with its roots, tied into bundles and left to dry until full maturity. After maturity it is shelled which separates the capsules containing the seeds of the plant. The seeds are used in the food industry as well as the production of oil varnishes. The process of retting is done to separate the woody portion of the stem to get the flax fibre. Exposure to the natural atmospheric elements such as rain, air, and sunshine decompose the outside woody barks by stimulating fermentation caused by fungi and bacteria, which attack the natural binding agents that trap the fibre in the woody part of the plant. The retting can also be done industrially, for example, by using hot water and specific chemicals. The flax is then dried using hot air stoves. After drying the flax fibre is dressed, this consists of breaking, scutching, and heckling of the flax. The aim of all these processes is to eliminate the residual woody part of the plant and to free the flax or linen fibres (lint), which are between 45 to 90 centimetres long from the remaining tow fibres, which have a length of between 10 and 25 centimetres. The most valued part of the flax is collected and bundled into sheaves which are then are then hackled (combed) by drums with different sized combs to separate the fibres and align them parallel, through a process sometimes known as "Long draw". This is followed by other procedures to refine and clean the fibre where it is "blended" or mixed to create separate lots or batches of raw material slivers. The slivers are then bleached to eliminate the natural binding elements and whiten the fibre. The final phase consists of loading the slivers for drafting and doubling to form a rove, (a very thin and slightly twisted strip of flax fibre). The wet yarn is then wrapped around small tubes and dried and to a humidity level of 8%. The yarn is afterwards spooled and several spools joined to form the final packaging. The yarn is finally checked and controlled with optical clearers to eliminate any flaws such as slubs and neps.
A stalk or stem of flax is composed of different layers of single individual fibres called elementary ?bres, which are between 25 and 40 millimetres long. To free the fibre bundles, which extend along the whole plant, up to its roots, these layers have to be eliminated. The flax fibres are composed up to 70% of cellulose and hemicellulose chain molecules; with a mixture of lignin, pectin, wax and fat materials making up the remaining 30%, which holds everything together. Linen, with respect to cotton, is more rigid with a smoother surface area. It is has more tensile strength but less elastic. A fundamental characteristic of linen is its freshness or coolness, due to its optimum thermal conductivity, because of this linen is widely used in making clothing that is mainly use in warm and humid climates, as well as its capacity to absorb up to 20% of its weight. Its excellent resistance to dilute acids, alkalis and organic solvents make it highly washable.
The yarns and cloth obtained from the fibre of flax do not trap much air, and therefore are poor insulators and allow the skin considerable transpiration. This characteristic makes linen garments particularly fresh. Moreover humidity, nearly always present in the fibre, makes any electrostatic charges almost non-existent. Linen fabric offers protection from electromagnetic pollution, filtering 95% of UVA rays; it does not inflame, resists abrasion and is very robust (a quality which increases when the fibre is soaked). Its hygroscopicity allows it to absorb and disperse in its surrounding humidity, thereby regulating in an optimum manner the microclimate that is created between the garment and the skin. Another particular characteristic of the fibre is its bactericide properties. Its fabric surface presents a moderate sheen and feels quite compact to the touch, even if in terms of its elasticity it is situated at the very bottom of all the textile fibres, with a value that is less than 2%. Lastly, linen has a high receptiveness to dyes and finishing treatments.